Where to find rare pieces at a good price

Japan has long been a haven for vintage shoppers, and recent post-pandemic travel trends, coupled with influencer enthusiasm, have raised awareness even among those previously unfamiliar with this aspect of the country’s fashion scene.

In Asia alone, the estimated turnover of the second-hand luxury goods market was $3.97 billion last year and is expected to rise to $4.38 billion this year, with the figures expected to reach $5.84 billion by 2028. Japan is a prime destination for purchasing luxury second-hand and vintage items due to its extensive offering, weak yen and a unique shopping experience.

“Japan has a strong vintage and sales culture, unlike other countries where luxury pieces are passed down as heirlooms,” said Shinoko Itakura, brand manager of Amore Vintage, during an interview at one of its Omotesandō stores, which specializes in sourcing and selling Chanel pieces. “During the bubble period in the ’80s, many women bought luxury designer pieces, especially Chanel. It was a trend at the time, especially because the economy was doing really well. Those pieces are with us now.”

“In Japan, there are many high-quality items that are in excellent condition,” explains Sakimi Hamada, CEO of luxury second-hand shop Vintage Qoo. “Compared to many other countries, there are many shops in Japan that kaitori–They buy used items for resale.”

The vintage luxury market in Tokyo is deeply rooted in Japan’s broader cultural practices. The Japanese approach to cherishing and preserving one’s possessions – a concept known as mono where taisetsu ni (value your stuff) – ensures that vintage luxury pieces are often in excellent condition. This cultural respect for possessions results in a robust market for vintage luxury, where the condition of the items remains paramount. Shops like Vintage QOO and Amore have not only done well because of this cultural preference, but have also become international destinations for those looking for rare pieces in the best condition.

For inventory and experience

Both Amore and Vintage Qoo have thousands of designer pieces in their inventory. In Japan, such shops require a special license to sell used designer pieces. This license also allows them to bid at private auctions, where some of the rarest pieces can be found. These auctions are filled with luxury goods that are shipped from all over the country through various Subscribe to Facilities and estate sales.

“We once had a huge pink Chanel bag decorated with rhinestones. It was a runway piece and I haven’t seen anything like it since,” said an Amore Vintage employee.

Both stores have gained a large following on social media and opened online stores before the pandemic, proving that interest was always there. “About 90% of our customers are foreigners,” Itakura admitted, noting the change in shopping habits among locals. “The younger Japanese who visit us are opting for second-hand and vintage designer pieces, not only because of the price but also because they consider it more ethical,” Hamada added.

Still, it is better to shop in person as shopping remotely has its limitations. Some serious collectors will not get exotic leather as shipping is not allowed. They have to buy it themselves and carry it with them.

What also sets certain vintage and second-hand stores apart is the special shopping experience. Both Amore Vintage and Vintage Qoo are characterized by their meticulous attention to detail. They also have Hermès rooms, huge departments for Louis Vuitton and Dior, and even an entire floor or branch dedicated exclusively to Chanel.

“We want customers to feel like they have traveled back in time when they come into the store, both on the first and second floors. As for the Chanel floor in the basement, we wanted it to feel like a vintage amusement park,” said Hamada.

At Amore Vintage’s main store, a Louis Vuitton trunk from the 1870s is on display, while rows of coveted Birkins and Kellys are organized by color and material.

Stay realistic

With the rise of the used market came the rise of Ultra-fakes and the need for more authenticators. This is where third-party authentication companies come in, now using technology. American company Entrupy, whose largest market in Asia is Japan, uses artificial intelligence (AI) to authenticate its items. “Counterfeit luxury goods are a huge, trillion-dollar problem globally,” shared Aila Amoyo-Reyes, Regional Sales Manager for Asia Pacific at Entrupy. “Of course, Japan has a great reputation when it comes to its inventory of second-hand and vintage items, and companies want to maintain that. And that’s where we come in.”

Entrupy began in 2012 at New York University, where its founder Vidyuth Srinivasan’s thesis was to prove that objects, like people, have their own identity – a kind of fingerprint. The company spent its first few years on research and development, collecting extensive data on real and fake objects.

“We provide our customers with a kit that includes our app and a powerful camera that can take extremely magnified images, allowing us to examine the material closely. They just need to select the make and model of bag they want to authenticate.” Once the photos are sent through the app, users can expect a response within a few seconds. “Our AI uses algorithms and machine learning techniques. Essentially, we teach the machine to recognize whether an item is genuine or ‘unidentified.'”

Counterfeiters are also getting smarter, learning what human authenticators look for and improving their fake items. They are now called Ultra-fakes for good reason. “We issue a certificate with a QR code for each bag. Scanning it takes you to the website where you can find the authentication details.”

Although it is still a B2B service, Amoyo-Reyes adds that these certifications provide an additional layer of security and trust, especially for overseas buyers. “The company’s mission is to really build trust and confidence throughout the supply chain, so we work with companies of different sizes as well as government institutions like customs authorities.”

looking ahead

After opening the Vintage Qoo store in Osaka earlier this year, Hamada is set for significant expansion, driven by growing global interest in Japan’s unique approach to vintage luxury.

Amore Vintage is also expanding its presence both locally and internationally. Itakura announced plans for a new branch in Tokyo, set to open in September this year. “The store will focus on archival collections and offer pieces that are not only vintage but also significant to fashion history,” Itakura said.

As Vintage Qoo and Amore Vintage embark on these ambitious ventures, they continue to represent the values ​​that have made them so well known in the Japanese vintage luxury market: a deep appreciation for quality, a commitment to authenticity and a dedication to providing exceptional shopping experiences.

Embracing the Future The Japanese vintage luxury market, with its mix of cultural reverence for objects and innovative retail approaches, remains a part of the global fashion landscape. By bringing their expertise to new markets, they continue the legacy of Japan’s unique second-hand culture and offer lovers around the world a timeless journey through fashion history.