Vacation in Vietnam? Dad is a war veteran. It felt like an oxymoron

Like so many of us Americans, the war is my point of reference for Vietnam. The country seemed like this faraway land where many Americans fought and died.

My father, Colonel Frank Underwood Sr., fought in the Vietnam War. He is 92 now and still looks great. He was there for a year but was injured a month later and received the Purple Heart.

In his later years, my father has become more thoughtful and emotional. He is moved when he thinks about Vietnam: what he saw and the relationships he had with his comrades, but also with the Vietnamese people and the friends he made there.

I remember him telling me it was a very difficult war, fighting on their territory and in the jungle, an environment very different from what we Americans are used to.

The Vietnam War was always a topic of conversation in my family, so I was intrigued by the fact that it was now a vacation destination. In my mind, it felt like an oxymoron.

My wife Josie and I celebrated our first anniversary on June 24, 2024. We have nine children in total: she has six and I have three.

I took my kids on trips abroad every summer. I think the seed of travel was planted in me at a young age. I was an army kid because my dad was in the military, so we traveled at least every two years.

After my previous divorce, I wanted to maintain a sense of continuity as I transitioned into my new life, so we booked this special family trip to Vietnam.

When I told my father that we were going to Vietnam, I was surprised by his reaction. I thought he was going to say: What do you think?

As he listened, he reflected on it and said, “I must tell you, it has always been a beautiful place – a tropical paradise. Sometimes it is hard to see that through the fog of war, which is hell and a lot of death.”

I really didn’t know what to expect in Vietnam. Neither did Josie or the kids. But it was fantastic from start to finish.

It’s low season in Vietnam. One of the reasons we didn’t go to Europe is because it’s so crowded at that time of year. But in Vietnam it wasn’t crowded at all.

As a family, we love adventure. In Quy Nhon, we went out with fishermen in these round basket boats that were about six feet in diameter, and they spun us around in the sea.

But we also spent a lot of time relaxing, socializing, and exploring the area on tours and boat trips. We walked around the city and the old town of Quy Nhon and went shopping.

A lot of clothes are made in Vietnam and the prices are great. I bought a pair of shorts and had two pairs of leather shoes made, which was fun. One day they take your measurements and the next you come back for another fitting and then your shoes are ready.

We also did a food tour of Hoi An with a local guide named Mr. Happy who took us through the old town and stopped at about five different places where we only had street food.

I don’t always eat street food in the US, but in Vietnam – this was one of the best meals I’ve ever had. I especially enjoyed the beef pho.

We stayed at the Anantara Hoi An hotel and then took an incredible six-hour luxury train ride on the Vietage from Da Nang to the Anantara Quy Nhon. The carriage had several different rooms with tables and chairs as well as a bar area, massage room and a first-class restaurant.

I’ve never had caviar in my life. I don’t eat seafood. But my daughter was keen on caviar and it looked so good that I had to try it – and it tasted great. The whole thing was just a five-star experience.

I had a FaceTime conversation with my dad while we were on the beach in Quy Nhon and he said, “I wish I could be with you.”

One of the resort managers, a Swede named Eric who had lived in Vietnam for ten years, said there was a community of American war veterans like my father who had returned to live here.

It’s fascinating. I’m sure everyone has a different reason for it, but Eric often heard that it gave these men emotional closure to what they had experienced there as young soldiers.

I loved learning about the history. Hanoi was our last stop and we stayed at the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi. Hanoi was heavily bombed during the war and a forgotten shelter was recently rediscovered beneath the hotel.

Joan Baez had used this very shelter to get to safety during the bombings. Charlie Chaplin had also stayed in this hotel during his honeymoon.

I really enjoyed getting to know the Vietnamese people. I was so impressed by their kindness and warmth. And when I learned the story from the Vietnamese perspective, I saw a lot of connections in my head.

One evening we went on a fishing trip in Quy Nhon, which meant a long drive to the beach. Our driver was a guy named Tic who had a vast knowledge of his country’s history.

I asked questions about the Vietnam War and the first thing he said was, “Well, we don’t call it the Vietnam War, we call it the American War.” I found that really interesting and it changed my perspective.

He also told us the whole history of French colonization and the wars with China and Japan, as well as the events of World War II.

It’s a country that has been invaded or colonized for many different reasons over the centuries. That was fascinating. We love learning about the history and the places we visit and that’s a big part of our family travel every year.

To those who are planning a holiday in Vietnam, I say: Go.

It’s a beautiful landscape with warm, friendly people. The food is incredible. Its place in world history is unique. The language is very different to what I’m used to, so I felt like a fish out of water. We drove around Hanoi in tuk-tuks, which was exciting.

All of our unusual and unfamiliar experiences were fun. It seemed mysterious to us. My whole family, including the children, was overwhelmed.

Vietnam has its own charm and flair. It is a very special place.

Blair Underwood is an actor, director and producer.

All views expressed are those of the author.

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