Shayne Oliver electrifies Berlin with Anonymous Club

“Berlin is the place that instinctively integrates the elements of an inspiring life into everyday life,” says Shayne Oliver, founder of cult label Hood by Air and his latest project Anonymous Studio. This week, Oliver unveiled his label’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection as part of Berlin Fashion Week, with a show that delighted longtime fans with a collection aimed at the new creative Berliners, outfitting them from the Späti (corner shop) to the city’s nightclubs.

Fans of Oliver’s high-low approach to sweatpants and late-night outfits waited in a vast industrial tunnel at Berlin’s Tempodrom for his second show for the brand. Designed by Gerkan, Mark & ​​Partners in 1980, the Tempodrom was originally an entertainment center near the former Berlin Wall in the west of the city. Today it is used as an event venue and during Berlin Fashion Week the entire building was taken over by Intervention, a series of fashion shows curated by Reference Studios founder Mumi Haiati. Other brands featured included German designers GmbH and Marie Lueder.

For this collection, Oliver redesigned the interior dome of the iconic Berlin building with a huge circular light installation and music so loud it shook the stadium’s 700 seats. Guests, reportedly including Kanye West, filled the space as they waited with bated breath for Oliver’s next move.

Few were disappointed. The Minnesota native’s first three models came out in hoodies cut to almost cover the wearer’s face, definitely appropriate for the Berlin summer (it had rained the entire day of the show). Then there were matching jackets and short sets, floor-length draped evening dresses in abstractly painted fabric, three-piece tracksuits and deconstructed evening dresses in bright blue.

Oliver’s aim for the collection was to “integrate the nuances of my immediate culture into a wardrobe, through actual design or through collaboration with the people who inspire him.” What he likes about living in Berlin is that “there is no specific format for working as a fashion designer. That’s ideal.” With Anonymous Studios, Oliver is focusing on perfecting the fundamentals of the brand – “it’s about cut and design, it’s about translating a good individual idea into a well-executed piece.”

Oliver feels supported by the fashion infrastructure in Berlin – “operationally, Berlin supports my process as a designer.” Oliver’s presence at Berlin Fashion Week is an indication of the growing importance of the event, which has gone from strength to strength over the past two years and recently received $190,000 in funding from the Berlin Senate for Economics, Energy and Enterprises.

“We focus on craftsmanship,” said Christiane Arp, chairwoman of the Berlin Fashion Council, at the opening of the FGC x Vogue Fashion Fund Reception, which awards $110,000 to an up-and-coming designer – “we focus on young Berlin labels with a strong perspective.”

As the show ended and fans streamed into Mockernstrasse, one Oliver fan shared that Anonymous Club’s latest collection was the ultimate Berlin wardrobe. Oliver plans to stay in Berlin for a while to perfect his craft. “Since I first worked on my show at the Schinkel Pavillon, I have found a sense of domestic balance here,” he says, “it was very enlightening.”