I paid to cross the famous Penmaenpool toll bridge, but not everyone is so lucky

The popular toll bridge at Penmaenpool near Dolgellau is a must for cyclists and walkers. Visitors on two and probably four wheels visit it as well as walking “pilgrims” on the Mawddach Trail.

I was in the area and decided to cross it myself as I had only ever driven through Dolgellau in the past. The car park is fine, it is close to the George III pub and is undeniably a picturesque spot on the Afon Mawddach.

Before I reached the bridge itself, I saw a plaque on an outbuilding commemorating the poor souls who died in a tragedy in 1966 when a pleasure boat crashed into the bridge. Despite the desperate efforts of local residents, 15 people from the Prince of Wales ship died.

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Built in 1879, the bridge is now very popular, less as a way to shortcut a route between the A496 and A493 and avoid Llanelltyd, but more as a tourist attraction in itself. That was certainly the impression I got when I chatted to the friendly guy at the hut collecting the 30p pedestrian toll.

He said motorcyclists – some from the Netherlands and Switzerland – frequent this crossing and stop to take photos. Today a vehicle, cyclist or pedestrian crossed the crossing every one to two minutes. One motorist paid £1 with a contactless card, as I suppose fewer of us carry cash these days.

However, there was once a gentleman from Birmingham who had paid the not inconsiderable toll for the M6 ​​and when he reached Penmaenpool he begrudged the £1 toll charged to motorists wishing to cross the bridge.

However, the proceeds go towards the running costs and maintenance of the bridge, so I paid 40p with two 20p coins and asked the tollman not to give change as it was for such a good cause. (The last of the big earners!)

He thanked me and wanted me to remind people that the bridge has a 5 mph speed limit, which not everyone obeys. Anyway, I was on foot, crossing the swirling waters of the winding river.

It is a black and white structure with a gentle, humped shape that has probably become as much of a landmark in North Wales as the Barmouth Viaduct.

It only takes a minute or two to traverse, but I was impressed by the herringbone planks on either side of the horizontally patterned center section. The patinated wood has that “weathered pine look” that people prefer, but this is the legacy of countless soles and tires.

On the way back there was another opportunity to enjoy the tranquil estuary with Cadair Idris nearby. I can imagine it is quite a harsh and exposed place in winter but on this Thursday morning it was a sunlit oasis, albeit with a refreshing breeze.

Sheep grazed contentedly on the river bank amidst the swaying grass, and I felt strangely accomplished as I reached dry land. It had been a bit of a rite of passage to pass through this famous, ancient structure, and now, thankfully, I had done it.

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