New CT steakhouse features patented dry aging process, Tavern

Of the hundreds of restaurants Stephen Goglia has opened across the country, his newest—a steakhouse and neighboring tavern in Connecticut—are his greatest labors of love.

Goglia loves the “stunning” historic brick building, built in 1806, with its 40-foot ceilings. He loves imagining the people and stories that passed through its doors when locks, hinges and doorknobs were his business more than 100 years ago.

But what he loves most is that it is his home, Branford, where Goglia has lived for 29 years and raised a family.

“I’ve done a lot of real estate, but this is a very special passion,” he said. “To be able to offer something so significant for a city that I love…”

Saltbrick Prime Steakhouse and Lockworks Tavern will open Friday, June 28, under the direction of his eldest son and partner, Joseph Goglia, 36.

Joseph Goglia also lives in Branford with his family.

The steakhouse offers dry-aged steaks of all cuts: sirloin, filet mignon, porterhouse and more.

The restaurant also offers fresh seafood, pork chops, chicken Wellington and the signature popovers.

They will also offer sought-after Japanese Wagyu.

“It’s pretty mind-blowing what we have here,” Goglia said of the steakhouse.

Goglia, whose company also owns the 414-seat Prime Steakhouse in Foxwoods, said the restaurant will be “inviting, not stuffy” and the music will be a bit louder than at most steakhouses.

The tavern next door, in the rectangular brick building, will be “playful” and serve unique appetizers and meals, with a daily “Blue Plate Special.”

Goglia, 63, has worked in the restaurant industry since he was 15 and lives on the New Jersey shore. He started parking cars and became fascinated with the kitchen when he sneaked into the restaurant to grab a bite to eat.

Growing up in a large Italian-Irish family where life revolved around big family meals and entertaining, Goglia caught the restaurant bug and has never looked back.

“There is something special about hospitality. Being able to care for others,” he said.

He attended the Culinary Institute of America and then earned a degree in hospitality from Florida International University.

He then worked for the most prestigious catering and hotel companies in the world, traveling all over the country.

Today, he is still involved in many major restaurant projects; his company owns Prime Steakhouse, Sprinkletown Donuts and the Italian restaurant Caputo Trattoria – all three in Foxwoods.

He moved to Branford from San Diego in 1995. He spent much of his time working from an office in New York, where he had an apartment as well as a home in Branford.

“I am very proud of our city,” he said

The historic building has housed many shops, including restaurants, over the years.

Goglia said “ironically,” the location of his new business is where he had his first restaurant experience when he moved to Branford. It was a seafood restaurant called Coral Reef.

The new stores are located at 1212 Main St. in the Lockworks Square Plaza.

When he heard that the Donavan’s Reef restaurant at that location was closing, his company seized the opportunity.

“I think the property is breathtaking,” he said.

The new steakhouse, with four chandeliers, large windows, a tree in the center and 115 seats, serves dry-aged steaks, “the cornerstone” of the company, Goglia said.

He said the company has a patent on a dry-aging process used at Branford and Foxwoods that involves refrigeration and a pink Himalayan salt process. The steak is aged for 30 to 60 days and retains the flavor in the meat, he said. Usually, the liquid you see on the plate is actually the flavor when someone remarks, “that steak is so juicy,” he said. Dry-aging condenses the flavor, he said.

He said the steakhouse has a spectacular bar embedded in Himalayan salt stones,

The tavern offers a “diverse menu” and an open kitchen.

“It’s a bit playful. We’ll have more atmosphere,” he said.

Shadow boxes will display historic pieces from the building, including artifacts such as brochures (copies), ornate doorknobs, locks and hinges. Some pieces were generously loaned by the Branford Historical Society, Goglia said.

He said the building housed many businesses: a tire shop, a bike shop and many restaurants.

“We went deep and gutted the building,” said Goglia. They found parts of the original floor and turned it into a damaged American flag.

To show their connection to Branford, they display a wood carving of the town seal and other symbols of the community.

Goglia said he has been more involved in this project than any other and that it reflects his in-depth knowledge from 48 years in the industry.

“There’s something gratifying about this project… It’s been really wonderful,” he said. “I’m just as energized and excited about our industry as I was back then (at the beginning).”

Goglia said he has an “outstanding” team and has also brought his longtime managing director/partner Alex Cabera and his family to Branford.

He and the team coined the term “unvarnished,” which means they are 100 percent honest with each other, without sugarcoating anything, but still nice.

They even have a house wine called “Unvarnished.”

Goglia said he will spend some time at the new restaurant in the beginning because it is like holding a baby.

“I am passionate and committed. I want the baby to get on its feet,” he said.